I know it's been a while since I posted an update on this project.
 
I'm not dead, and neither is the project, although work has certainly slowed.
 
Here's the latest render:
 

 
What's Changed?

• Using a Soviet Aerospace Toggle switch as the power switch.
  
• Separate power light.  The Soviet switch has a glow light in it, but not a power light.  Amber is shown, but it will actually be blue, as on the other amps I've built.
  
• More accurate measurements/layout.
  
• More accurate rendering color (I've always planned for it to be black.)
  

 
A big change (and thus reason excuse for the delay) is that I have decided not to use the thin steel that was previously the top cover of the chassis. I have instead purchased a nice thick piece of aluminum from Skycraft in Orlando, and that will serve as the main chassis for this build.
 
If one visualizes a typical inverted 'U' shaped top cover, one may realize that if this is replaced with a flat aluminum plate, then the resulting amp will have -- shall we say -- really good ventilation on the sides -- in other words, the sides would be missing.  While I always attempt to provide good cooling for my projects, they sort of need to have sides.
 
So basically, I don't have a solution at the moment.  I am considering nicely finished wood sides, but the thickness of wood may prevent the unit from actually being put in a rack.  In reality, it is unlikely that I (or anyone else) would try to but something with tubes sticking out from the top in a rack,   but as long as sufficient overhead space and ventilation is provided, there is no reason it wouldn't work.  Even with wood sides, there should be enough tolerance to allow it to fit in a rack, but of course scratching the wood would be a risk.
 
The plan as of right now is to go with the wood sides.  While it may not really make sense, both wood sides, and the rack-mount ears and handles look nice separately, so they should also look good together.
 
Current Status:

• The challenging cutouts for the displays, and other drilling of the the front panel is complete less painting.
  
• Similarly, cutting and drilling of the rear panel is complete less cutting some of the un-used real-estate, which will be covered with perforated ventilation areas.  Similarly, painting of the entire bottom and rear of the chassis is still needed.
  
• The drill plan for the chassis top is nearly complete
  
• All rear panel connectors are temporarily installed (fit check).  This includes digital and analog inputs, and the speaker terminals.
  

 
Next Steps:

• Cut the top plate from the purchased piece of aluminum. Using the basic tools I have getting the size and straightness needed is somewhat of a concern.
  
• Once the top plate is cut and fits correctly, It will be drilled for the tube sockets, wiring feed throughs, and other components.
  
• Remaining back panel cutouts.
  
• Painting.
  

 
Once these steps are done, the actual building (component installation and wiring) can begin.
 
As mentioned, it is going slowly, and for now, it is not going to get much faster.  There are other projects and activities that will slow work on this project.  Check for updates on this and the other projects here on all of the Linuxslate.com "Builds and Projects" forums.
 
(Relevant and Polite) comments and suggestions are always welcome, so if you would like to join the conversation register as indicated at the top of the page.
 

So work is proceeding only very occasionally on this project.
 
While attempting to assemble the entire case (including the rack mount "ears") I ran into difficulty with the wooden sides.
 
I ended up cutting the sides from the original "lid" or cover, and using them as separate pieces.  The also required some additional cutting of the new top aluminum plate, but I now have the basic chassis assembled as it will be.
 
Next step is to get serious about drilling the top plate.  I have a little more finalizing of the top plate "drill plan", and then it will go under the drill press.
 
I would still much rather anodize than paint the top plate, but that is not a project that I feel like tackling myself, and I don't know of anyone locally that will do it, so it will probably either go to the local powder coater, or just get spray painted.

Finally, some real progress:
 
With the overall layout finalized, I was able to drill the top panel.
 
Here it is, drilled and anodized:
 

 
Thanks to Chem-TeK Metal Finishing for doing a very nice job on the anodization, for doing it in less than 2 days, and for a very reasonable price.  
 
In addition, cutting and installation of the vent mesh on the back panel is complete.  I also found hole plugs at Lowes that perfectly fit the RCA holes next to the SPDIF connections, so those holes will not be cut or covered, they will probably just have the hole plugs inserted.
 
The next step is painting the rest of the chassis, which as mentioned, I have decided to do in-house with just spray paint.  This will also include disassembly, cleaning and painting of the output transformer shells.
 
2 things are delaying painting -- First, it has actually been cold enough here (<50°F) as to be below the optimum temperatures for panting, and Second, Lowes was out of black metal flake paint due to the "Supply Chain Issues" we are facing here in the US right now.
 
Once painting of the chassis is complete, actual building/wiring can begin.  I will wire the AC mains connections to the low voltage power supply, and then wire all of the input connections to the input selector board, as well as the buttons, encoder and display for the DAC.
 
Before any actual building of the Tube Amplifier circuitry begins, the bottom chassis will be separately tested as a premium DAC, digital input selector, and spectrum display.